I'll give the ". The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. This item: Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black $71.72 Holley Sniper EFI 870001 Throttle Position Sensor $34.60 Holley 860004-1 92MM Sniper Throttle BDY $223.93 Customers who viewed this item also viewed Page 1 of 1 Start over Holley EFI Idle Air Control (Iac) Valve Motor 30 13 offers from $79.56 That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. The tps has slotted holes, can you adjust it to get to zero? Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Thank you. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. Going back to what you said. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. I'd really appreciate some help. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. You could go either way.. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Also its extremely rich at idle. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . nothing stays steady. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. If I go any more it will ping. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Not that I noticed. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. The RPM would increase for no reason. It is a common one. Or alternator? The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Give us a hand! you have it set. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. All times are GMT-6. :-). Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Hello. It may take a few tries. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Take it a step at a time. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. Thanks for the info Chris. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Tried that and it didn't work? Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. Then your low idle problem will go away. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. no timing control. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. your IAC is at zero. Enjoy! It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Hey Chris! (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. Any help would b great. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 What you are experiencing is rather common. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. Thank you for any advice. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. You can adjust this number up or down but there is really no need to change it unless the car is stalling.The sucking sound is just what happens when the Sniper EFI System is paired with certain intake manifolds. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" So glad this was helpful. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road.
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